Searching in Paris

At least 35,000 Filipinos live in France, according to a 2003 estimate in the Philippine Daily Inquirer. For decades, Paris has been home to many of these expatriates, who range broadly from overseas foreign workers (OFWs) and young students, to international businessmen and diplomats, Filipina fashionistas and the occasional Forbes Park matronas [women of established age and dignity]. Accompanying them have been several waves of Pinoy restaurants. From the 1970s until the late 1990s Nora Daza -- sometimes called the "Julia Child of the Philippines" -- operated a Filipino restaurant in several incarnations. The most recent incarnation, Aux Iles Philippines [In the Philippine Islands], was located in the Left Bank, but closed its doors for the last time a few years ago. Prior to opening Chez Genia in May 2003, even the Sorbonne-educated del Fierro-Sanson and her sisters owned another restaurant called Mindanao, which was located near the Boulevard de la Madeleine until 1999.

That was then and this is now. These days typical Pinoy restaurants outside of the Philippines usually offer straightforward food in a no-nonsense buffet-style format. More often than not, the atmosphere and presentation of these establishments tend to be afterthoughts, far outweighed by the proprietor's desire to acquire electronic accoutrements such as karaoke/videoke machines or big-screen televisions broadcasting satellite feeds of Manila television. You will find none of these things at Chez Genia, however, for it is anything but your typical Filipino restaurant.

The Little Things Matter

The del Fierro sisters believe that Philippine cuisine can be a positive and effective ambassador of Filipino culture in France. "For many of the French, their first contact with the Philippines is through our food and our restaurants," Theresa del Fierro-Sanson tells me. "So we work hard to project a good image by paying homage to Filipino food and fine dining with a nice, simple presentation."

Chez Genia's cheerful, bright façade (magnify)

So as far as first impressions are concerned, Chez Genia's could hardly be improved. Passersby are greeted initially by the restaurant's cheerful, bright green façade, fresh-cut flowers on the windowsill, and an inviting, sun-kissed yellow door. Once inside, the understated elegance of Chez Genia's tasteful and unpretentious interior invites visitors to relax and take in their surroundings. Diners sit at piña-covered tables. Above are high molded ceilings and below are intricately tiled floors. Large windows are open to fill the space with fresh air and soft, muted sounds from the street.

The cream-colored walls are punctuated with old framed photographs and paintings that evoke Chez Genia's southern Mindanao influence. One wall features an oil portrait of the del Fierro sisters' grandmother, Josefina Ibanez-del Fierro of the Mandaya tribe, that was painted by the self-taught artist Manuel Pañares. Flanking the portrait are two coconut husks, each cradling delicate orchids that remind the del Fierro sisters of the gardens of their late mother, Eugenia Tan del Fierro. Indeed, it was Eugenia who first taught them to cook in the kitchen of their ancestral farm in the Davao del Norte province, and it is Eugenia for whom the restaurant is named. The interior of Chez Genia silently tells the family's history and asks us to remember always: It is the little things that tease the senses and please the soul...

Fine Dining á la Pinoy

Sublime surroundings aside, Chez Genia's main attraction is without doubt its phenomenal Philippine cuisine. Almost all of Chez Genia's menu is derived from family recipes. Sample the restaurant's succulent starters to whet your appetite. I highly recommend its Davao specialty, kinilaw, fresh tuna cubes marinated and tossed in oil, lemon juice, spring onions, basil and other herbs and spices, then served with fish sauce. Or try its fresh sariwang lumpia, which features the del Fierro sisters' unique mix of finely sliced vegetables, lightly sautéed with onions, and wrapped in homemade lumpia wrappers.

After starters, turn to Chez Genia's delectable seafood entrées. You cannot go wrong with spicy mutyaka baleleng, a steamed tropical sole filet marinated in the del Fierro sisters' special ginger sauce and wrapped in banana leaves. A favorite of both local Parisians and Filipinos is agukoy, crab stuffed full with crabmeat, a divine coconut-based cream, red and green bell peppers, herbs and spices, and cashew nuts.

Parisians enjoy salmon sa gata, a Chez Genia culinary creation (magnify)

The del Fierro sisters have also invented an original seafood dish called salmon sa gata, which starts with fresh salmon that is then topped with coconut milk and lightly grilled, garnished with lemon grass and other herbs, then served with patis, a salty fish sauce.

Complementing its selection of seafood, Chez Genia offers tantalizing white and red meat dishes. Of course, it has chicken adobo and other Filipino standards. But be adventurous and try pinunuang manok, an aromatic and spicy sliced chicken filet marinated with chili peppers and a little rum, lightly browned in coconut milk, and served with a coconut-based sauce with spring onions and lemon grass. If you prefer red meat, then order spicy paka sa dahong saging, minced beef prepared with several fresh herbs, chili peppers, basil, spring onions and a coconut cream, and then wrapped in banana leaves and oven-baked to perfection.

But be sure to leave room for dessert because Chez Genia has some wonderful light treats to scintillate your sweet-tooth, such as piña á la Genia, fresh pineapple lightly cooked in brown sugar and lemon syrup; bocayo ni peping, freshly grated coconut meat caramelized with lemon leaves; and fresh homemade banana pie.

Fine Dining as an Ambassador

If Chez Genia is an embassy of Philippine cuisine in Paris, the mission of the del Fierro sisters has been a successful one so far. Within the last year, fine Filipino dining has already begun to conquer the notoriously fastidious French palette.

Knowledge of Chez Genia has spread by word of mouth. Besides a loyal set of Filipinos, the restaurant now counts among its regulars several French government officials, as well as French businessmen who enjoy sharing Philippine cuisine with associates and clients. "The way the French are eating is changing, they're always looking for lighter fare," Del Fierro Sanson notes. "I really do hope there will be more Filipino restaurants in Paris."

Chez Genia's future is even brighter than its charming façade. In the coming months, the del Fierro sisters are adding small-scale catering to their restaurant business. In their continuing effort to promote the best of the Philippines, the restaurant may even start to sell high-end Pinoy food products -- Filipino organic fruit juices, mangoes and the like. "I think that they will really appeal to Europeans," del Fierro-Sanson says enthusiastically.

When you next find yourself in Paris, come see for yourself.

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Copyright 2004 Filipinas Magazine